our heads, and slept soundly until the morning.

_November 7th._--This day we continued along the banks of a stream, in
the direction of its source, until it dwindled to a mere rivulet, when
we left it and took to the hills at the base of another mountain. We
rode some way along a rocky path until, turning round a corner to the
left, we found ourselves at the town or village of Mezzovo. As Mahmoud
Pasha had supplied me with a firman and letters to the principal persons
at the several towns on my route, I looked out my Mezzovo letter, with
the intention of asking for an escort of a few soldiers to accompany me
through the passes of Mount Pindus, which were reported to be full of
robbers and cattiva gente of every sort and kind, the great extent of
the underwood of box-trees forming an impenetrable cover for those
minions of the moon.

Most of the population of Mezzovo turned out to see the procession of
the Milordos Inglesis as it entered the precincts of their ancient city,
and defiled into the market-place, in the middle of which was a great
tree, under whose shade sat and smoked a circle of grave and reverend
seignors, the aristocracy of the place; whereupon, holding the pasha's
letter in my hand, I cantered up to them. On seeing me advance towards
them, a broad-shouldered good-natured looking man, gorgeously dressed in
red velvet, embroidered all over with gold, though something tarnished
with the rain and weather, arose and stepped forward to meet me. "Here
is a letter," said I, "from his highness Mahmoud Pasha, vizir of Yanina,
to the chief personage of Mezzovo, whoever he may be, for there is no
name mentioned; so tell me who is the chief person in this city; where
is he to be found, for I desire to speak with him?" "You want the chief
person of Mezzovo?" replied the broad-shouldered man; "well, I think I
am the chief person here, am I not?" he asked of the assembled crowd
which had gathered together by this time. "Certainly, malista, oh yes,
you are the chief person of Mezzovo undoubtedly," they all cried out.
"Very well," said he, "then give me the letter." On my giving it to him,
he opened it in a very unceremonious manner; and, before he had half
read it, burst into a fit of laughing. "What are you laughing at?" said
I: "Is not that the vizir's letter?" "Oh!" said he, "you want guards, do
you, to protect you against the robbers, the klephti?" "Yes, I do; but I
do not see what there is to laugh at in that. I wa