a wild animal.

One settlement, Basoko, has a tragic meaning for the Anglo-Saxon. Here
died and lies buried, the gallant Grenfell. I doubt if exploration
anywhere revealed a nobler character than this Baptist minister whose
career has been so adequately presented by Sir Harry Johnston, and who
ranks with Stanley and Livingstone as one of the foremost of African
explorers. In the Congo evangelization has been fraught with a truly
noble fortitude. When you see the handicaps that have beset both
Catholic and Protestant missionaries you are filled with a new
appreciation of their calling.

The most important stop of this trip was at Coquilhatville, named in
honor of Captain Coquilhat, one of the most courageous of the early
Belgian soldier-explorers. It was the original Equatorville (it is at
the point where the Equator cuts the Congo), founded by Stanley when he
established the series of stations under the auspices of the
International African Association. Here dwells the Vice-Governor of the
Equatorial Province. Near by is a botanical garden maintained by the
Colonial Government and which contains specimens of all the flora of
Central Africa.

At Coquilhatville I saw the first horse since I left Rhodesia and it was
a distinct event. Except in the Kasai region it is impossible to
maintain live stock in the Congo. The tsetse fly is the devastating
agency. Apparently the only beasts able to withstand this scourge are
goats and dogs. The few white men who live in Coquilhatville have been
able to maintain five horses which are used by the so-called Riding
Club. These animals provide the only exercise at the post. They are
owned and ridden by the handful of Englishmen there. A man must drive
himself to indulge in any form of outdoor sport along the equator. The
climate is more or less enervating and it takes real Anglo-Saxon energy
to resist the lure of the _siesta_ or to remain in bed as long as
possible.

Bolobo is a reminder of Stanley. He had more trouble here than at any of
the many stations he set up in the Congo Free State in the early
eighties. The natives were hostile, the men he left in charge proved to
be inefficient, and on two occasions the settlement was burned to the
ground. Today it is the seat of one of the largest and most prosperous
of all the English Baptist Congo missions and is presided over by a
Congo veteran, Dr. Stonelake. One feature of the work here is a manual
training school for natives, who m