has many oil barges on the various rivers where its vessels ply. The
capacity of some of the barges is 250 tons of oil. They are usually
lashed to the side of the steamer. The decks of these barges are often
piled high with bags of kernels and become a favorite sleeping place for
the black voyagers for whom the thousands of insects that lurk in them
have no terrors. No bug inflicts a sharper sting than these pests who
make their _habitat_ among the palm kernels.

One of my fellow passengers on the "Comte de Flandre" was I. F. Braham,
the Associate Managing Director of the "H. C. B." in the Congo. Long the
friend and companion in Liberia of Sir Harry Johnston, he was a most
desirable and congenial companion. It was on his suggestion and
invitation that I spent the week at Alberta and he shared the visit. Our
hosts were Major and Mrs. Claude Wallace.

Major Wallace was the District Manager of the Alberta area and occupied
a brick bungalow on the bank of the river. He is a pioneer in
exploration in the French Congo and Liberia and went almost straight
from the battlefields of France, where he served with distinction in the
World War, out to his post in the Congo. His wife is a fine example of
the white woman who has braved the dangers of the tropics. She left the
luxury and convenience of European life to establish a home in the
jungle.

It is easy to spot the refining influence of the woman in the African
habitation. You always see the effect long before you behold the cause.
One of these effects is usually a neat garden. Mrs. Wallace had half an
acre of English roses in front of her house. They were the only ones I
saw in Central Africa. The average bachelor in this part of the world is
not particularly scrupulous about the appearance of his house. The
moment you observe curtains at the window you know that there is a
female on the premises.

My life at Alberta was one of the really delightful experiences in the
Congo. Every morning I set out with Braham and Wallace on some tour of
inspection. Often we rode part of the way on the little light railroad.
The method of transport was unique. An ordinary bench is placed on a
small flat car. The propelling power is furnished by two husky natives
who stand on either side of the bench and literally shove the vehicle
along with long sticks. It is like paddling a railroad canoe. This
transportation freak is technically called a _maculla_. The strong-armed
paddlers were able to