o the Establishment, which are on these
days provided with hooks and lines, and sent off those parts of the
island where there is known to be good fishing ground.

CHAP. XIV.

Dutch Galliot--An Agreeable Companion--Strange Associates--Melancholy
Account of St. Jago--Beauty in Tears--Manner of obtaining Salt, and
Water at Mayo--Pleasures of a Galliot in a heavy Sea--Dutch
Miscalculation--Distances--An Oblation to Neptune and Amphitrite (new
style)--Melange, Devotion and _Gourmanderie_--Curious Flying-fish--
Weather--Whales--Cape Pigeons--Anchor off Rio Janeiro--Distant
Scenery--Custom-house Duties--Hotel du Nord--Rua Dircito--Confusion
thrice confounded--Fruit Girls, not fair, but coquettish--Music
unmusical, or Porterage, with an Obligato Accompaniment--Landing-places--
An Evening Walk--A bad Cold--Job's Comforter--Shoals of Visitors--
Captain Lyon's Visit, and Invitation to the Author--Naval Friends--
Packet for England--English Tailors--Departure for Gongo Soco--The
Party--Thoughts on Self-Denial--Uncomfortable Quarters--Changes of
Atmosphere--Freedom by Halves; or _left_-handed Charity--Serra Santa
Anna--Valley of Botaes--The Ferreirinho, or little Blacksmith--Dangerous
Ascent of the Alto de Serra--Pest, an Universal Disease--An English
Settler--Rio Paraheiba--Valencia--Curiosity of the People--Unceremonious
Inquisitors--Comforts of a Beard--Castor-Oil for burning--Rio Preta--
Passports--Entrance to the Mine Country--Examination of Baggage--
Attention without Politeness--The Green-eyed Monster, "An old Man
would be wooing"

At eight o'clock, I found myself and baggage on board the Dutchman,
under all sail, for Rio de Janeiro. I had the good fortune to meet with
a countryman, in a fellow voyager, who proved to be excellent society,
and who, consequently, became my principal companion, for although the
captain and his mates were good sailors, and honest men, they were
unskilled in the polite usages of society, and as the best linguist
amongst them had but a small share of broken English, much conversation
with them was out of the question.

Mr. Fearon (my fellow passenger), having left England, some time since,
for Sierra Leone, the vessel in which he sailed, had called at St. Jago,
where they found the Consul General for the Cape de Verds, lying
dangerously ill with the fever. Mr. Fearon was solicited to remain and
perform the duties of that office; and a few days after, had the
melancholy task of attendi