nhabitants of the town collected to comment upon us, and it so
happened, that I was the principal object of curiosity in the whole
group: this unlooked for distinction, arose from two circumstances,
first, my wearing a long beard; and secondly, my blindness. These
peculiarities produced numberless exclamations, as, "How could I travel?
Why did I travel? Why did I wear a long beard? Was I a Padre?--or, a
Missionary?" and so forth, until they became so pressing that we were
glad to get housed, with closed doors, to keep these troublesome
inquisitors at a respectful distance.

I can well understand, that a simple people, whose experience is limited
to their own habits, and who have never had an opportunity of
inter-mixing with other nations, must have been startled by the novelty
of a beard; but their astonishment at the sight of a board, was not
greater than mine, on discovering that they were destitute of an
appendage, which, in the torid zone, is at once an article of luxury and
utility. The people of the East invariably wear beards, not merely as a
national custom, but as a matter of necessity; and, for my part, I can
testify, that I found it an indispensable protection to the neck, and
the lower part of the face: after a day's journey, the luxury of
immerging the face in cold water, leaving the beard half dry, was most
refreshing, the evaporation producing a very reviving and agreeable
effect. In addition to my beard, I had the farther protection of a broad
brimmed straw-hat, the crown of which was deeply wadded with cotton
wool, and which completely screened me from the piercing rays of a
tropical sun.

Having occasion for some castor-oil, I sent to an apothecary to procure
it, which amused the people exceedingly, who declared their astonishment
at our simplicity, in sending to a doctor for an article so common here,
that it is generally used for lamp-oil, and to obtain which, it is only
necessary to gather the beans from the plant, which grows wildly and
luxuriantly in this country, and express the juice in the ordinary way.

Soon after leaving Valencia, we passed a venda, kept by another
countryman of ours, but we did not stop there, being anxious to reach
the town of Preta before night. About sunset we arrived at Rio Preta (or
Black River), passing over a long wooden bridge to the town, where we
waited for the authorities, to have our passports, &c. examined, which
we had previously procured at Rio, from the Min