mself a collector. At about a league distance, we commenced the
ascent of the Serra D'Ora Branca, which was almost impracticable even
for our mules. It is so steep and difficult, that it is the universal
custom to dismount, to which, I believe, I formed the only exception, an
undertaking of considerable hazard to ride either up, or down, this
mountain. At about a league beyond the summit, on the opposite side, we
entered what is called the Topaz District, where we soon passed many
washings for Topazes, and put up for the night at the celebrated one of
Capoa, where we were not very well entertained, although the proprietor
of this venda was a Colonel in the Brazilian militia. It is the general
custom, while travelling in this country, for the inhabitants to bring
you a panela, or large bowl of hot water, every night, when you are
going to bed, for your feet, and it is usual to have a black man in
attendance, for the purpose of examining the feet, and extracting the
jiggers with a needle, at which operation they are very expert.

_Monday, 11_.--Although our journey on this day, was only intended to be
three leagues to the imperial city of Ora Preta (Black Gold), the Villa
Rica (Rich City) of the maps, capital of the mining districts, we set
off at daylight, and arrived about ten at the house that is kept for the
use of the Gongo Soco Mining Company. The gold that is collected at the
Gongo Soco mines, is sent from time to time to the mint at this place,
where it is essayed and melted into bars, the government reserving, a
tax of 25 per cent. before it is suffered to be transmitted to Rio. On
leaving Capoa this morning, we visited several mud huts in the village,
and neighbourhood, in search of those mineralogical specimens, which are
commonly known in this country by the name of Raridades.

During our route, but more especially before we arrived at the Campos,
not a day passed without our meeting droves of oxen and pigs as well
as many troops of loaded mules, with coffee, cotton, sugar, &c. all
proceeding from the interior for Rio; and our olfactory nerves were not
unfrequently assailed by a very offensive odour, arising from dead
animals, principally oxen, among whom there is usually a great mortality
on these journeys, in consequence of excessive fatigue from travelling
500 or 600 miles, as also from the bad and insufficient pasturage they
find on their road. When these unfortunate animals sink down under their
suffering