difficult to imagine, and scarcely possible to be
surpassed. The wind and tide being against us until two o'clock, the
sea-breeze then setting in, we got under weigh, to go into the harbour,
but, at four o'clock, the Portuguese authorities obliged us to come to
an anchor in the outer harbour, abreast of Fort Santa Cruz, in 22
fathoms water.

H.M.S. Blossom, Captain Beechy, dropped anchor here this afternoon, on
his return voyage from his explorating expedition in Baring Straits,
when she immediately saluted the flag of Sir Robert Otway, which was
flying on board H.M.S. Ganges. H.M.B. Chanticleer, Captain Forster, was
also lying in the harbour; an agreeable _rencontre_, I should imagine,
for Captains Beechy and Forster, who were companions on the North Pole
expedition; no small difference in climate and scenery from their
present place of meeting. Captain Peters of our galliot (the Young
Nicholas) and Mr. Fearon went on shore in the evening, but I was too ill
with my cold, even to venture exposing myself to the night air, or to
remove until I had secured a comfortable lodging; however, on the
following afternoon I landed, but without my baggage, as it was detained
until special permission for its removal could be received from the
Custom-house; where every packet was examined and paid for, before I was
permitted to take it to my lodgings.

Mr. Fearon and myself took up our quarters at the Hotel du Nord near the
Palace, at one end of the Rua Direito (or strait street), which runs
parallel with the sea. This is the broadest and best street in Rio de
Janeiro, and as the Custom-house is situated in the centre, with the
Palace and Dock-yard flanking the extremities, this street is an immense
thoroughfare, especially as all articles of merchandise, not excepting
the slaves, or any other object of traffic imported, or exported, must
pass through it, on, or from, its way to the Custom-house.

But, as though the confusion necessarily attendant upon this continual
bustle were insufficient, each group of porters as they pass along with
their heavy loads, chant their peculiar national songs, for the double
purpose of timing their steps and concentrating their attention on their
employment. To these sounds are added the variety of cries, uttered in
an endless alternation of tones, by the pretty negress fruit venders,
who, smartly dressed, and leering and smiling in their most captivating
manner endeavour so to attract the attentio