loth, but only rest upon it.

When the embroidery is finished, turn the work the wrong side up, cut
every second or third tacking stitch and pull the threads carefully out,
from the wrong side, when the lace will separate itself from the backing
without difficulty; it has then to be damped and ironed also on the
wrong side. (See the concluding chapter on the different processes for
finishing off needlework).

It is of no consequence which are made first, the bars or the fillings;
we however incline to the former, more especially in the case of
buttonhole bars, as they are easier to do than the fillings and once
done, there is less risk of puckering or drawing the edges together, in
making the fillings.

THE STITCHES.--We shall now proceed to describe a series of bars and
stitches, which, if carefully studied, will serve as a preparation for
making all the finer kinds of laces described in the ensuing chapter.

Without pretending to have exhausted the infinite variety of lace
stitches that exists, we hope to have brought before our readers' notice
a sufficiently numerous selection to satisfy all tastes and capacities.

With regard to the names, the same stitches are known by so many
different ones, that excepting in the case of those universally
accepted, we have disregarded them altogether and merely numbered the
stitches in their order.

[Illustration: FIG. 694. PLAIN TWISTED BAR.]

PLAIN TWISTED BAR (fig. 694).--Secure the thread to the braid and
throw it across from one braid edge to the other, put the needle in
downwards from above, and overcast the first thread, so as to form the
two into a cord. If you do not make enough overcasting stitches to
tighten the two threads, the bars will be loose and untidy and spoil the
general appearance of the work.

[Illustration: FIG. 695. DOUBLE TWISTED BAR.]

DOUBLE TWISTED BAR (fig. 695).--Throw three foundation threads across
the space to be filled and overcast them loosely, so that they remain
visible between the stitches.

PLAIN BUTTONHOLE BAR (fig. 696).--Throw three threads across and cover
them with buttonhole stitches, made from right to left.

In making this and the subsequent bars, we recommend turning the needle
round and holding it as it were the reverse way, so that the eye not the
point passes first under the threads; strange as it may seem, it is
easier in this manner to avoid splitting the threads. The working thread
should always issue from the edge