f and carried
over the combined gold threads, as shown in the left corner of fig. 868,
representing one quarter of the whole design, where the position of the
needle and the way in which the picot is secured are plainly indicated.

For the scallops, a round material with rather a strong twist should be
used, such as Soie de coton D.M.C No. 100[A] or Fil a dentelle D.M.C
Nos. 70 to 100[A], wound on reels.

[Illustration: FIG. 868. QUARTER OF THE PATTERN FOR FIG. 867, IN THE
NATURAL SIZE.]

Where the picots have to fill up empty spaces of a larger size, you can
join several together by connecting them each in turn with the first.

When you have bordered all the outlines with buttonhole stitches and
picots, fill up the spaces enclosed within the lines, which properly
speaking form the pattern, with flat stitch embroidery, worked in Coton
a broder or Coton a repriser; after which the whole surface is sewn over
with fine little spangles which give the sparkling look that constitutes
the peculiar charm of this kind of embroidery. The flowers are covered
with a fancy stitch that forms regular little lozenges, and every second
row of stitches is hidden under a spangle.

With regard to the colours indicated at the foot of fig. 867, this is
how they were distributed in the original, from which our engraving was
taken; all the outlines in buttonhole stitch, in Bleu pale 668; the tops
of the flowers in Bleu-Indigo 334; the bottom parts in Bleu-Indigo 332,
and all three shades of blue so blended together in the solid parts of
the design as to be undistinguishable from each other. It is not
absolutely necessary to keep to the colours here indicated; there is no
reason whatever why a greater variety should not be introduced, but in
every case the more subdued shades should be selected; a pale red, for
instance, for the flowers, a green and a brown for the arabesques, will
always be found to produce a very pretty and harmonious effect.

When all the needlework is finished, you cut away the stuff underneath
the network formed by the picots, with a pair of sharp scissors.

A word remains to be said with regard to the copying of fig. 868.

Our readers will notice that in fig. 867 the flowers and arabesques
succeed and grow out of each other; that whilst the four quarters are
symmetrical, yet at the same time, the curves in each quarter take a
different inclination.

You cannot therefore simply repeat the subject four times; when