of one plain buttonhole
stitch and then one reversed, that is, made by bringing the needle out
in front of the thread and passing it under the loop; the result being
that the thread will lie behind the thread and not before it, as in an
ordinary buttonhole stitch.

[Illustration: FIG. 703. BRANCHED BARS.]

BRANCHED BARS (fig. 703).--Where you have a larger surface to cover
with bars, you are generally obliged to make them with branches. For
this purpose you prepare the threads as for an ordinary bar and cover
them halfway with buttonhole stitches; then you carry on the foundation
thread to the next bar, buttonhole it also halfway, lay the next
foundation thread, and finally buttonhole all the half-covered bars till
you reach the dotted line, from whence you lay the last foundation
threads.

The last bar is worked over 2 or 4 threads, so that the working thread
can be taken back to the edge of the braid by means of the last
buttonhole stitches.

[Illustration: FIG. 704. PLAIN RUSSIAN STITCH.]

PLAIN RUSSIAN STITCH (fig. 704).--Stitches of all kinds can be used,
as well as bars, for joining braids together that run parallel to each
other, and for filling up the spaces between. These stitches, which
serve as an insertion, are some of them very elementary, whilst others
require great skill and patience to execute.

The simplest of all is the Russian stitch, which bears a great
resemblance to the crossed stitch, shown in fig. 39, and the crossed
back-stitch, fig. 176.

You pass the needle from left to right, under the edge of the braid,
then again from right to left under the opposite edge, taking care
always to leave the thread in front of the needle.

[Illustration: FIG. 705. TWISTED RUSSIAN STITCH.]

TWISTED RUSSIAN STITCH (fig. 705).--Instead of passing the needle
behind the thread, pass it before it and round it, so that the needle
always comes out again beneath the thread, which will then be twice
twisted.

[Illustration: FIG. 706. COLUMN STITCH.]

COLUMN STITCH (fig. 706).--At the bottom, the stitch is made like the
plain Russian stitch, and at the top, like the one in fig. 705, with the
difference that the second thread is passed three times round the first.

[Illustration: FIG. 707. INSERTION OF SINGLE BUTTONHOLE STITCHES.]

[Illustration: FIG. 708. INSERTION OF PLAIN BUTTONHOLE STITCHES.]

INSERTION OF SINGLE BUTTONHOLE STITCHES (figs. 707 and 708).--Make
very loose buttonhole stitches along both