country place to hear me, engaged me personally after the first act. I
had a wonderful and rare chance to "be grand" when the Director told me
this. He asked me if I would be willing to sing my other _Gastspiel_ of
_Nancy_. I replied loftily that I really could not do so, as I must
return to Paris.

Six days before the opening of the season, according to contract, I
arrived with my sister in the town which was to be my home for the next
three years. It is surrounded by forests and looked very pretty; but oh!
so quiet! The _Hoftheater_ stands in a park, and is a classic-looking
structure seating 1,400 persons. It has been there for a hundred years,
and runs by clockwork. A building behind it, more than half as large as
the theatre itself, contains the ballet school and scene-painting lofts
and a complete dressmaking and tailoring establishment, with the
wardrobe mistress and master at the head, where all costumes are made.
They are also kept here, and the collection is a very complete one, with
endless sets of uniforms, armour and historical costumes of all kinds.
Men's dress is supplied; women who have a salary of more than 3600 marks
($900) are supposed to supply their own, but if you are nice to the
wardrobe mistress she will usually contrive to find what you want,
though you must get permission from the Direction to wear it. Excellent
dressers are provided for the principals, and a hair-dresser to put on
your wig. There is a small charge if it requires dressing. The theatre
pays these people, but you are supposed to tip them on New Year's Day,
also the stage doorkeeper, the man who brings you the scores of your
parts, and any one else you like, though only the first four expect it;
and 10 marks ($2.50) is a liberal tip. You are expected to keep your
costumes at home, and send them over in a basket-trunk on the morning of
the performance for your dresser to unpack, press and hang up. You pay a
man $1.00 a month to do this, though many singers send their servant.

There are four Kapellmeisters, the first one who rejoiced in the title
of _Hofrat_ (Court councillor), the second, and third, and a fourth for
the chorus. Felix Weingartner is now first conductor there. The
orchestra consists of sixty musicians, and is really good. They have
played together so long, that they can play almost anything, and they
excel in Mozart, whom, with Wagner, they adore, while they look with
condescension upon the works of Puccini. The sc