the sixteenth centuries. Practically all
needlework prior to 1600 is entirely ecclesiastical, and from its
limited range in choice of subjects barely does justice to the fine work
this period produced.

Dr. Rock says that "few persons of the present day have the faintest
idea of the labour, the money, the time, often bestowed on old
embroideries which had been designed by the hands of men and women each
in their own craft the best and ablest of the day."

We do not know the length of time these ancient vestments occupied in
the making, but twenty-six years is stated to be the period of making
the vestments for the Church of San Giovanni, in Florence. This is all
worked in close stitches similar to our English work.

_Ancient Church Vestments._

The names of the ecclesiastical vestments are somewhat puzzling to those
of us who do not belong to the Romish Church, or even to the English
High Church. The vestments described are, we believe, in use in the
Romish churches now as in the early times when church embroidery was the
pleasure and the labour of all classes of English women. The
accompanying diagram will better illustrate the use of these vestments
than a page of writing.

[Illustration: ECCLESIASTICAL VESTMENTS.

1. Amice.
2. Orphreys.
3. Chasuble.
4. Sleeves of Alb.
5 and 9. Apparel of Alb.
6. Maniple.
7. Stole.
8. Alb.

_From "A Guide to Ecclesiastical Law," by kind permission of Mr. Henry
Miller._]

* * * * *

The Alb is often trimmed handsomely with lace, the apparels are stitched
on to the front. The Stoles ought to have three crosses embroidered on
it and be 3 yards long. Over this comes the Chasuble, which is the
last garment the priest puts on before celebrating Mass. The Cope is a
huge semi-circular 10 ft. wide cape. The Maniple is a strip of
embroidery 3 ft. 4 in. long worn over the left wrist of the priest.

[Illustration: ECCLESIASTICAL VESTMENTS.

English, Fifteenth or early Sixteenth Century.

(_S.K.M. Collection._)]

IV

TUDOR EMBROIDERY

IV

TUDOR EMBROIDERY

The influences of the Reformation--Queen Catherine of Aragon's
needlecraft--The gorgeous clothes of Henry VIII.--Field of the
Cloth of Gold--Queen Elizabeth's embroideries.

After the Reformation and the wholesale destruction of the cathedrals,
monasteries, and churches, the gentle dames of England found their
occupation gone. The priestly vestments,