covered with wood: there is not now a vestige of land to be seen; the
spot where it existed being only known to voyagers by a shoal which is
visible at low water. But not only have the islands been swept away,
but the mainland along the west end of the lake seems gradually being
encroached upon and engulphed by the waves; an undeniable proof of
which is, that the old post of Norway House, which formerly stood at a
considerable distance from the water's edge, is now close to it, and
the burial-ground is nearly all submerged.
We arrived at the foot of Grand Rapid late on the 29th of July, and
passed the portage on the 30th, assisted by the natives--Sauteux,
Crees, and half-breeds. These live luxuriously on sturgeon, with
little toil. Among them I observed two or three old Canadians, who
could scarcely be distinguished from the natives by language, manners,
or dress; such persons, when young, having formed an attachment to
some of the Indian young women, betake themselves to their half-savage
mode of life, and very soon cannot be persuaded to quit it.
We arrived on the 5th of August at Riviere du Pas, where an old
Canadian, M. Constant, had fixed his abode, who appeared to have
an abundance of the necessaries of life, and a large family of
half-Indians, who seemed to claim him as their sire. We breakfasted
sumptuously on fish and fowl, and no charge was made; but a gratuity
of tea, tobacco, or sugar is always given; so that M. Constant loses
nothing by his considerate attentions to his visitors.
We reached Cumberland House on the 8th. Here I was cheered by the
sight of extensive corn-fields, horned cattle, pigs and poultry, which
gave the place more the appearance of a farm in the civilized world,
than of a trading post in the far North-West; and I could not help
envying the happy lot of its tenant, and contrasting it with my own,
which led me to the wilds of New Caledonia--to fare like a dog,
without knowing how long my exile might be protracted.
We arrived at the post of Isle a la Crosse, where we were detained a
day in consequence of bad weather. This post is also surrounded by
cultivated fields, and I observed a few cattle; but the voice of the
grunter was not heard.
The Indians who frequent this post are chiefly Chippeweyans, with a
few families of Crees. The former differ in features, language, and
manners from any I had yet seen. Their face is of a peculiar mould,
broad; the cheekbone remarkably promine
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