ate is very high, and
in case of epidemics the mortality is enormous. At such times a large part
of the population leaves the city and encamps in the desert northward.

The principal public buildings of the city, such as they are, lie in the
eastern section along the river bank. To the north, just within the old
wall line, stands the citadel, surrounded by a high wall, with a lofty
clock-tower which commands an excellent view. To the south of this, also on
the Tigris, is the _serai_ or palace of the Turkish governor, distinguished
rather for extent than grandeur. It is comparatively modern, built at
different periods, a large and confused structure without proportion,
beauty or strength. Somewhat farther southward, just below the pontoon
bridge, stands the custom house, which occupies the site and is built out
of the material of the medreseh or college of Mostansir (A.D. 1233). Of the
original building of the caliph Mostansir all that remains is a minaret and
a small portion of the outer walls. Farther down are the imposing buildings
of the British residency. The German consulate also is on the river-front.
As in all Mahommedan cities, the mosques are conspicuous objects. Of these
very few are old. The Marjanieh mosque, not far from the minaret of
Mostansir, although its body is modern, has some remains of old and very
rich arabesque work on its surface, dating from the 14th century. The door
is formed by a lofty arch of the pointed form guarded on both sides with
red bands exquisitely sculptured and having numerous inscriptions. The
mosque of Khaseki, supposed to have been an old Christian church, is
chiefly distinguished for its prayer niche, which, instead of being a
simple recess, is crowned by a Roman arch, with square pedestals, spirally
fluted shafts and a rich capital of flowers, with a fine fan or shell-top
in the Roman style. The building in its present form bears the date of A.D.
1682, but the sculptures which it contains belong probably to the time of
the caliphate. The minaret of Suk el-Ghazl, in the south-eastern part of
the city, dates from the 13th century. The other mosques, of which there
are about thirty within the walls, excluding the chapels and places of
prayer, are all of recent erection. Most of them are surmounted by
bright-coloured cupolas and minarets. The Mosque of the Vizier, on the
eastern side of the Tigris, near the pontoon bridge, has a fine dome and a
lofty minaret, and the Great Mosque i