k they perform is beyond belief. Ten miles an hour is the common
rate of travelling post: four of them are generally used for this
purpose, and the stages are from seven to nine miles, according to the
nature of the country. When within half-a-mile of the first house where
relays are kept, the native coachman cracks his long, unwieldy whip,
which can be heard at a great distance. At this signal, the grooms
harness the four poneys whose turn for work it is; and, by the time your
carriage halts under the shed that crosses the road at every post-house,
the fresh poneys are to be seen coming out of the stable, all ready for
the next stage. Your attention is then attracted by a man with a stout
bamboo, some eight feet long, in his hand, full of water, which he pours
over the naves of the wheels, to cool them. By this time, the tired
poneys are unhooked, the fresh ones put-to, and away rattles the
carriage again with its delighted passengers. I know nothing more
exciting and agreeable than a ramble amongst the mountains of this
favoured isle, under the direction of the post establishment.

[Footnote 3: The Java poney in Her Majesty's stable at Windsor,
is certainly no fair specimen, being the worst-favoured brute
under the sun.]

From Samarang, early in 1824, I posted with a friend to Solo and
Djockdjocarta, the ancient seats of the Emperors and Sultans of this
part of Java. They are now shorn of their splendour; but they still
possess novelty enough to attract a stranger. On our route, we visited
some beautiful coffee-plantations, and passed through the pretty and
romantic-looking village of Salatiga.[4] We had a splendid view of the
far-famed _Gunung Marapi_, or fire-mountain; and, on every side, we saw
evidence of the thriving condition of this magnificent part of Java.

At Solo, I was so fortunate as to be present at the then Emperor's
marriage; a scene which brought painfully to mind the fallen state of
the chiefs of this neighbourhood, by its being superintended by the
Dutch Resident at the Court. There were three days' feasting, royal
salutes from the imperial guard, Javanese music, and dancing girls in
great numbers; but I found the whole affair very fatiguing. Fallen as
was the Emperor's state at that time, it subsequently became much more
reduced, in consequence of his having been found guilty of being
secretly concerned in the late war or rebellion. He has long since
followed his friend and coadjutor,