828 and 1830, I found, even then,
to have declined very seriously from its former prosperity. Previously
to its transfer, in 1825, to the Dutch, great exertions were made to
render this settlement important for its exportation of spices of all
descriptions; and, so far as regards nutmegs, mace, and cloves, those
exertions were eminently successful. Planters and others, however, soon
found that, on the hauling down of the British flag, and the hoisting of
the Dutch, their prospects underwent a very material change, arising
from duties and other charges laid on the commerce of the place. Most of
the capitalists retired with the British establishment, of which,
indeed, they formed a part. A hard struggle was maintained by those
planters who remained behind, but without success; and the place is now
very little more than a station for a Dutch Assistant-Resident and a
small garrison.

Bencoolen harbour is a dangerous one, particularly during the prevalence
of the boisterous north-west monsoon, which blows with such violence on
this part of the west coast of Sumatra. Ships generally anchor close
under the lee of Rat Island and reef, where they find smooth water,
unless the weather is unusually severe. This anchorage is seven miles
from the wharf where merchandise is landed, and considerable risk is
occasionally incurred by the cargo boats in making good this short
distance. In very stormy weather, ships and boats also are compelled to
seek shelter in Pulo Bay; a vile, unhealthy place situated about twelve
miles south-east of Rat Island, and surrounded with a low, swampy,
agueish-looking country. The Siamese suffer severely in this harbour
from fever and ague, and ship-masters are glad to leave it as soon as
the weather moderates. In my time, there was a convenient covered wharf
at Bencoolen for landing goods, but not a vestige now remains: it was
originally built by the English, and the Dutch have not cared to
preserve or replace it. In the present wretched state of the settlement,
indeed, it is of trifling consequence, since little difficulty can be
found by the few merchants from Java who from time to time visit
Bencoolen, in landing the small quantities of goods they may have to
dispose of.

The climate of Bencoolen is the worst it has been my fortune to
encounter since I left Europe. The land wind that sets in about seven
P. M., is the most trying breeze I ever encountered. To sit in an open
verandah when it is blowing,