is quite out of the question; at least with
impunity. I tried the experiment more than once, and never escaped
without a severe seizure of trembling something like ague, within less
than half an hour. The injurious effects of this land wind may be traced
to the swamps between the hills in the vicinity of the town, which,
unlike those of Singapore, are formed by fresh water, and are no better
than stagnant puddles. In passing over these, the wind becomes of course
charged with malaria, which it distributes in every house between it
and the sea; and woe betide the European who fails to keep out of its
way! Most places that I have visited, have a healthy, as well as an
unhealthy season. Bencoolen is an exception to this rule, being
unhealthy all the year through. Even vegetation suffers here from the
south-east monsoon; and a nutmeg-plantation exposed to its dry, parching
influence, has the appearance of a plantation of heather-brooms more
than of any thing else.[9] The natives do not appear to suffer from the
climate, but seem to be as healthy and long-lived as Asiatics generally.
Of the character of these natives, I can say little that is favourable.
They are indolent, proud, though poor, gamblers, vindictive, and far too
ready with the knife on little or no provocation; they are very fond of
dress, and not over scrupulous how they gratify this taste; for which
purpose I have known them have recourse to theft, lying, robbery, and
even murder. Had they one single spark of energy in their composition,
they might be a thriving and contented people, possessing as they do a
boundless extent of rich virgin soil, which they are too lazy to clear
and cultivate. The place is overrun with a race of petty Rajahs and
other nobles, who are a social pest, being poor, and yet too proud to
strain a nerve to support themselves and their families. Sir Stamford
Raffles succeeded in rousing the ambition of these men a little, by
giving some of them commissions in the local corps, which gratified
their taste for gay attire, and supplied them with a few hundred rupees
per month to keep up a little state. From my sweeping reproach of the
chiefs, I would except these _Radins_[10] with whom I have spent many
pleasant evenings, and who really possessed gentleman-like feelings and
tastes.

[Footnote 9: This remark applies to the side of the tree that
faces the south-east only. The north-west side is perfectly
healthy-looking and green