esidence of cooks, and scullions,
tenants of the government, who treat their visitors with good dinners,
and excellent wine, and take good care to make them pay handsomely for
their faultless fare.
Returning to my hotel rather late at night, I passed through the Champs
Elisees, which, at this hour, seemed to be in all its glory. Every
"alley green," was filled with whispering lovers. On all sides the
sounds of festivity, of music, and dancing, regaled the ear. The weather
was very sultry, and being a little fatigued with rather a long walk, I
entered through a trellis palisade into a capacious pavilion, where I
refreshed myself with lemonade.
Here I found a large bourgeois party enjoying themselves, after the
labours of the day, with the waltz, and their favourite beverage,
lemonade. A stranger is always surprised at beholding the grace, and
activity, which even the lowest orders of people in France, display in
dancing. Whiskered corporals, in thick dirty boots, and young tradesmen,
in long great coats, led off their respective femmes de chambre and
grisettes, with an elegance, which is not to be surpassed in the
jewelled birth night ball room. Nothing could exceed the sprightly
carelessness, and gay indifference which reigned throughout. The music
in this place, as in every other of a similar description, was
excellent.
The french police, notwithstanding the invidious rumours which have been
circulated to its prejudice, is the constant subject of admiration with
every candid foreigner, who is enabled under the shelter of its
protection, to perambulate in safety every part of Paris, and its
suburbs, although badly lighted, at that hour of the night, which in
England, seldom fails to expose the unwary wanderer to the pistol of the
prowling ruffian. An enlightened friend of mine, very shrewdly observed,
that the english police seems to direct its powers, and consideration
more to the apprehension of the robber, than to the prevention of the
robbery. In no country is the _art_ of thief catching carried higher,
than in England. In France, the police is in the highest state of
respectability, and unites force to vigilance. The depredator who is
fortunate enough to escape the former, is seldom able to elude the
latter.
The grand National Library of Paris, is highly deserving of a visit, and
is considered to be the first of its kind in Europe. In one of the rooms
is a museum of antiques. The whole is about to be remov
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