vish allotment of space, than by a judicious
formation, and frequent repair.
The inns along the road are very poor, although over the door of almost
every little cottage is written, in large characters, "Bon Cidre de
Victoire." There are also no regular post-horses to be met with. The
country, on all sides of us, was very mountainous and luxuriant, and
much resembled the southern parts of Devonshire. About seven o'clock in
the evening of the same day, we arrived at St. Lo, which is, without
exception, the cleanest and most charming, romantic little town, I saw
in France. It is fortified, and stands upon the top of a mountain, at
whose base is expanded a luxuriant scenery of woods and villages,
through which the riviere de Ville winds in beautiful meanders. The
inhabitants of this town appeared to be rich and genteel. In the evening
I supped at the table d'hote, where there were several pleasant people.
At this town we slept, and set off, the next morning, very early, for
Valogne, where we dined; and in the evening, after passing a
considerable extent of rich meadow land, and descending a very steep
hill, the freshness of the sea air announced to us our near approach to
Cherbourg, where, at the hotel d'Angleterre, I was soon afterwards
landed. For my place and luggage to this place I paid twenty-four
livres. My expenses upon the road were very reasonable. Here I had the
good fortune to find a packet which intended to sail to England in two
days, the master of which asked me only one guinea for my passage in the
cabin, provisions included. However, thinking that the kitchen of a
french vessel might, if possible, be more uncleanly than the kitchen of
a french inn, I resolved upon providing my own refreshments for the
little voyage.
[Illustration: _Cherbourg_]
Cherbourg is a poor and dirty town. After having heard so much of its
costly works and fortifications for the protection of its harbour, my
surprise was not little, upon finding the place so miserable. It is
defended by three great forts, which are erected upon rocks in the sea.
The centre one is about three miles off from shore, and is garrisoned by
1200 men. At a distance, this fort looks like a vast floating battery.
Upon a line with it, but divided by a distance sufficient for the
admission of shipping, commences the celebrated, stupendous wall, which
has been erected since the failure of the cones. It is just visible at
low water. This surprising work is si
|