at in France it was understood that the english were troubled with
the ennui, or tristesse de coeur, and that they drank large draughts of
wine and spirits to expel the gloomy malady. I softened this opinion of
our common character, as well as I could, for, I fear, without offering
considerable outrage to truth, I could not wholly have denied it.
After dinner, we walked to the cathedral, which is a noble gothic pile,
and, upon our return, found the diligence in waiting for us. My
companions were attended to the door of the carriage by their hospitable
friends, between whom several kisses were interchanged. I took an
opportunity, just before I mounted the step, of stealing one of these
tokens of regard from the fair young damsel who had so courteously
offered me the liqueur, at the same time telling her, that in England, a
kiss was always considered as the best remedy for the tristesse de
coeur.--Away trotted our little norman steeds; and, notwithstanding they
had come all the way from Caen, they soon carried us over the hills on
this side of Bayeux. The eye communicated delight to the heart, whilst
it contemplated the vast extent of corn fields, which in this fertile
province undulated on all sides of us, in waves of yellow exuberance,
over which, embosomed in trees, at short distances, peeped the peaceful
and picturesque abode of the prosperous cottage farmer. The prospect
afforded an impressive contrast to the impolitic agricultural system,
which has lately obtained in England, by which cottage farms are
consolidated into ample domains of monopoly, and a baneful preference is
given in favour of the rearing of cattle, to the vital and bountiful
labours of the plough. A celebrated writer, who well knew in what the
real wealth of a nation consisted, has observed, that he who could make
two ears of corn grow upon a spot of ground, where only one grew
before, would deserve better of mankind than the whole race of
politicians. The high roads of Normandy are unnecessarily broad; hence
considerable portions of land remain uncultivated. A spacious road, like
every thing which is vast, excites an impression of grandeur; but in
this prolific department, the facilities of travelling, and the dignity
of the country, might be consulted with less waste. This prodigality is
perhaps attributable to the highways in France having shared but little
of its legislative attention; and accommodation appears to have been
sought rather by a la
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