ual, preheated
pastry shells, casseroles or ramekins, although this way most of the
fun of the dunking party is left out. To make up for it, however,
cooked slices of mushrooms are sometimes added.

At the Cheese Cellar in the New York World's Fair Swiss Pavilion,
where a continual dunking party was in progress, thousands of amateurs
learned such basic things as not to overcook the Fondue lest it become
stringy, and the protocol of dunking in turn and keeping the mass in
continual motion until the next on the Fondue line dips in his cube of
bread. The success of the dish depends on making it quickly, keeping
it gently a-bubble and never letting it stand still for a split
second.

The Swiss, who consume three or four times as much cheese per capita
as we, and almost twice as much as the French, are willing to share
Fondue honors with the French Alpine province of Savoy, a natural
cheese cellar with almost two dozen distinctive types of its very own,
such as Fat cheese, also called Death's Head; La Grande Bornand, a
luscious half-dried sheep's milker; Chevrotins, small, dry goat milk
cheeses; and Le Vacherin. The latter, made in both Savoy and
Switzerland, boasts two interesting variants:

1. _Vacherin Fondue or Spiced Fondue:_ Made about the same as
Emmentaler, ripened to sharp age, and then melted, spices added
and the cheese re-formed. It is also called Spiced Fondue and
sells for about two dollars a pound. Named Fondue from being
melted, though it's really recooked,

2. _Vacherin a la Main:_ This is a curiosity in cheeses,
resembling a cold, uncooked Fondue. Made of cow's milk, it is
round, a foot in diameter and half a foot high. It is salted and
aged until the rind is hard and the inside more runny than the
ripest Camembert, so it can be eaten with a spoon (like the
cooked Fondue) as well as spread on bread. The local name for it
is _Tome de Montagne_.

Here is a good assortment of Fondues:

Vacherin-Fribourg Fondue

2 tablespoons butter
1 clove garlic, crushed
2 cups shredded Vacherin cheese
2 tablespoons hot water

This authentic quickie is started by cooking the garlic in butter
until the butter is melted. Then remove garlic and reduce heat.
Add the soft cheese and stir with silver fork until smooth and
velvety. Add the water in little splashes, stirring constantly in
one direction. Dunk! (In this melted Swiss a l