suited
to the company of any good wine because it is made in the exact shape
and size of a wine barrel bung. A similar relation is found in Brinzas
(or Brindzas) that are packed in miniature wine barrels, strongly
suggesting what should be drunk with such excellent cheeses: Hungarian
Tokay. Other foreign cheeses go to market wrapped in vine leaves. The
affinity has clearly been laid down in heaven.

Only the English seem to have a _fortissimo_ taste in the go-with
wines, according to these matches registered by Andre Simon in _The
Art of Good Living:_

Red Cheshire with Light Tawny Port
White Cheshire with Oloroso Sherry
Blue Leicester with Old Vintage Port
Green Roquefort with New Vintage Port

To these we might add brittle chips of Greek Casere with nips of
Amontillado, for an eloquent appetizer.

The English also pour port into Stilton, and sundry other wines and
liquors into Cheddars and such. This doctoring leads to fraudulent
imitation, however, for either port or stout is put into counterfeit
Cheshire cheese to make up for the richness it lacks.

While some combinations of cheeses and wines may turn out palatable,
we prefer taking ours straight. When something more fiery is needed we
can twirl the flecks of pure gold in a chalice of Eau de Vie de Danzig
and nibble on legitimate Danzig cheese unadulterated. _Goldwasser_, or
Eau de Vie, was a favorite liqueur of cheese-loving Franklin
Roosevelt, and we can be sure he took the two separately.

Another perfect combination, if you can take it, is imported kuemmel
with any caraway-seeded cheese, or cream cheese with a handy saucer of
caraway seeds. In the section of France devoted to gin, the juniper
berries that flavor the drink also go into a local cheese, Fromage
Fort. This is further fortified with brandy, white wine and pepper.
One regional tipple with such brutally strong cheese is black coffee
laced with gin.

French la Jonchee is another potted thriller with not only coffee and
rum mixed in during the making, but orange flower water, too. Then
there is la Petafina, made with brandy and absinthe; Hazebrook with
brandy alone; and la Cachat with white wine and brandy.

In Italy white Gorgonzola is also put up in crocks with brandy. In
Oporto the sharp cheese of that name is enlivened by port, Cider and
the greatest of applejacks, Calvados, seem made to go the regional
Calvados cheese. This is also true of our native Jersey Lightning and
hard cider with