k with fingers of toast or your own to a chorus
of "All Bound Round with a Woolen String."

Of course, this can be treated as a mere vinous Welsh Rabbit and
poured over toast, to be accompanied by beer. But wine is the
thing, for the French Fondue is to dry wine what the Rabbit is to
stale ale or fresh beer.

We say French instead of Swiss because the French took over the dish
so eagerly, together with the great Gruyere that makes it distinctive.
They internationalized it, sent it around the world with bouillabaisse
and onion soup, that celestial _soupe a l'oignon_ on which snowy
showers of grated Gruyere descend.

To put the Welsh Rabbit in its place they called it Fondue a
l'Anglaise, which also points up the twinlike relationship of the
world's two favorite dishes of melted cheese. But to differentiate and
show they are not identical twins, the No. 1 dish remained Fromage
Fondue while the second was baptized Fromage Fondue a la Biere.

Beginning with Savarin the French whisked up more rapturous,
rhapsodic writing about Gruyere and its offspring, the Fondue,
together with the puffed Souffle, than about any other imported cheese
except Parmesan.

Parmesan and Gruyere were praised as the two greatest culinary
cheeses. A variant Fondue was made of the Italian cheese.

Parmesan Fondue

3 tablespoons butter
1 cup grated Parmesan cheese
4 eggs, lightly beaten
Salt
Pepper

Over boiling water melt butter and cheese slowly, stir in the
eggs, season to taste and stir steadily in one direction only,
until smooth.

Pour over fingers of buttered toast. Or spoon it up, as the
ancients did, before there were any forks. It's beaten with a
fork but eaten catch-as-catch-can, like chicken-in-the-rough.

Sapsago Swiss Fondue

2 tablespoons butter
2 tablespoons flour
1/2 teaspoon salt
1-1/2 cups milk
2-1/2 cups shredded Swiss cheese
2-1/2 tablespoons grated Sapsago
1/2 cup dry white wine
Pepper, black and red, freshly ground
Fingers of toast

Over boiling water stir the first four ingredients into a smooth,
fairly thick cream sauce. Then stir in Swiss cheese until well
melted. After that add the Sapsago, finely grated, and wine in
small splashes. Stir steadily, in one direction only, until
velvety. Season sharply with the contrasting peppers and serve
over fingers of toast.

This is also nice when served bubbling in individ