on sour milk simmered with butter.

The English have a cheese called Margarine, made with the butter
substitute. In Westphalia there are no two schools of thought about
whether 'tis better to eat butter with cheese or not, for in
Westphalia sour-milk cheese, butter is mixed in as part of the process
of making. The Arabs press curds and butter together to store in vats,
and the Scots have Crowdie or Cruddy Butter.

BUTTERMILK CHEESE

The value of buttermilk is stressed in an extravagant old Hindu
proverb: "A man may live without bread, but without buttermilk he
dies."

Cheese was made before butter, being the earliest form of dairy
manufacturing, so buttermilk cheese came well after plain milk cheese,
even after whey cheese. It is very tasty, and a natural with potato
salad. The curd is salted after draining and sold in small parchment
packages.

German "leather" cheese has buttermilk mixed with the plain. The Danes
make their Appetitost with sour buttermilk. Ricotta Romano, for a
novelty, is made of sheep buttermilk.

COTTAGE CHEESE

In America cottage cheese is also called pot, Dutch and smearcase. It
is the easiest and quickest to make of all cheeses, by simply letting
milk sour, or adding buttermilk to curdle it, then stand a while on
the back of the kitchen stove, since it is homemade as a rule. It is
drained in a bag of cheesecloth and may be eaten the same day, usually
salted.

The Pilgrims brought along the following two tried and true recipes
from olde England, and both are still in use and good repute:

_Cottage Cheese No. 1_

Let milk sour until clotted. Pour boiling water over and it will
immediately curd. Stir well and pour into a colander. Pour a little
cold water on the curd, salt it and break it up attractively for
serving.

_Cottage Cheese No. 2_

A very rich and tasty variety is made of equal parts whole milk and
buttermilk heated together to just under the boiling point. Pour into
a linen bag and let drain until next day. Then remove, salt to taste
and add a bit of butter or cream to make a smooth, creamy consistency,
and pat into balls the size of a Seville orange.

CREAM CHEESE

In England there are three distinct manners of making cream cheese:

1. Fresh milk strained and lightly drained.
2. Scalded cream dried and drained dry, like Devonshire.
3. Rennet curd ripened, with thin, edible rind, or none, packaged
in small blocks or miniature bricks by dairy compani