es suggested by Phil Alpert are:

FROM FRANCE: Port-Salut, Roblochon, Coulommiers, Camembert, Brie,
Roquefort, Calvados (try it with a spot of Calvados, apple brandy)

FROM THE U.S.: Liederkranz, Blue, Cheddar

FROM SWEDEN: Hable Creme Chantilly

FROM ITALY: Taleggio, Gorgonzola, Provolone, Bel Paese

FROM HUNGARY: Kascaval

FROM SWITZERLAND: Swiss Gruyere

FROM GERMANY: Kuemmelkaese

FROM NORWAY: Gjetost, Bondost

FROM HOLLAND: Edam, Gouda

FROM ENGLAND: Stilton

FROM POLAND: Warshawski Syr

[Illustration]

_Chapter Nine_

Au Gratin, Soups, Salads and Sauces

He who says _au gratin_ says Parmesan. Thomas Gray, the English poet,
saluted it two centuries ago with:

Parma, the happy country where huge cheeses grow.

On September 4, 1666, Pepys recorded the burying of his pet Parmesan,
"as well as my wine and some other things," in a pit in Sir W.
Batten's garden. And on the selfsame fourth of September, more than a
century later, in 1784, Woodforde in his _Diary of a Country Parson_
wrote:

I sent Mr. Custance about 3 doz. more of apricots, and he sent me
back another large piece of fine Parmesan cheese. It was very
kind of him.

The second most popular cheese for _au gratin_ is Italian Romano, and,
for an entirely different flavor, Swiss Sapsago. The French, who gave
us this cookery term, use it in its original meaning for any dish with
a browned topping, usually of bread crumbs, or crumbs and cheese. In
America we think of _au gratin_ as grated cheese only, although
Webster says, "with a browned covering, often mixed with butter or
cheese; as, potatoes _au gratin_." So let us begin with that.

Potatoes au Gratin

2 cups diced cooked potatoes
2 tablespoons grated onion
1/2 cup grated American Cheddar cheese
2 tablespoons butter
1/2 cup milk
1 egg
Salt
Pepper
More grated cheese for covering

In a buttered baking dish put a layer of diced potatoes, sprinkle
with onion and bits of butter. Next, scatter on a thin layer of
cheese and alternate with potatoes, onions and butter. Stir milk,
egg, salt and pepper together and pour it on the mixture. Top
everything with plenty of grated cheese to make it authentically
American _au gratin_. Bake until firm in moderate oven, about 1/2
hour.

Eggs au Gratin

Make a white sauce flavored with minced onion to pour over any
desired number of eggs broken into a buttered bak