all sleep in Barcelona. Of the
Discipline of the Spanish Navy I cannot say much, nor can I praise their
cleanliness. I wish much to see a storm. How they manage then I do not
know, for when it blows hard the sailors will not go aloft; as for the
officers or Midshipmen, they never think of it. Indeed, the latter live
exactly as well as the officers; they mess with them, have as good
berths, & are as familiar with them as they are with each other; very
different in every respect from the discipline in English Men of War. I
shall write another letter to my sisters by this post; as they are at
Highlake you may exchange letters. Soon I shall write to you again. I
have to thank you for a very long letter which I received at Geneva,
chiefly relating to the proper judgement of paintings. I am not yet
quite a convert, but experience may improve me. In Spain I understand I
shall see some very good ones by the first masters. I fear much that my
desire of visiting Spain will not be so keen as it was when I have seen
a very little of it. By all accounts, even from Spaniards themselves,
travelling is very inconvenient, & what is infinitely worse, very
expensive; added to which the intolerable Suspicion & care of the
Government renders any stay there very unpleasant. In case I find myself
not at my ease there I shall, when at Gibraltar, take a passage back to
Italy, for Rome & Naples must be seen. Now I think of it I must mention
one ship well known to you which I saw at Leghorn, namely, the _John of
Leith_. I accidentally saw her boat with the name written; you may be
sure I looked at her with no small pleasure.[10] When I sought for her
next day she was gone. I little thought when I last saw you to see a
ship in which you had spent so much time, up the Mediterranean. I am
learning Spanish at present, & the progress I have made in it is not the
least pleasure I have received during my stay in the _Argonauta_. It is
a language extremely difficult to understand when spoken, but easy to
read, & very fine. I can already understand an easy book. If I can add
Spanish & Italian, or some knowledge of those languages, to my stock, I
shall consider my time and money as well spent, independent of the
Countries I shall have seen. Before I close this letter, which you will
receive long after its original date, I must tell you I have been making
a most interesting visit to the celebrated Lady of Mont Serrat,[11] &
was even permitted to kiss her hand