e to a River which was
so much swelled that the Boatman could not ferry us over. Nearly a
hundred Muleteers and others were in the same predicament, and we had
the satisfaction of passing two most miserable days in a horrid Cortigo,
a house of _accommodation_ a degree lower than a Venta. Our provisions
were exhausted, and nothing but bread and water were to be met with.
Beds, of course, or a room of any sort were unobtainable. Conceive to
yourself a kitchen filled with smoke, without windows, in which were
huddled together about forty of the lowest order of Spaniards. As it
poured with rain we could not stir out, and as for staying within doors
it was scarcely possible. If we tried to sleep we were instantly covered
with fleas and other insects equally partial to a residence on the human
body. After two days' penance, as the waters began to abate, we
determined to cross the river in a small boat and proceed on foot, which
we did, and though we had to skip thro' 2 or 3 horrible streams and wade
thro' Mud and Marshes we performed the journey lightly, as anything was
bearable after the Cortigo del rio Zuariano. We passed through St. Roque
and the Spanish lines and arrived at Gibraltar on 20th, out of patience
with the Spaniards and everything belonging to Spain. Indeed, the
Country is a disgrace to Europe. I wish indolence was the only vice of
the inhabitants, but added to laziness they are in general mean in their
ideas, the women licentious in their manners, and both sexes sanguinary
to a degree scarcely credible. In Malaga particularly, few nights pass
without some murders. Those who have any regard for their safety must
after dark carry a sword and a lantern. You may form some idea of the
people when there was one fellow at Granada who had with his own hand
committed no less than 22 Murders. Nothing could be more gratifying to
an Englishman than finding wherever he goes the manufactures of his own
Country. This in Spain is particularly the case; there is scarcely a
single article of any description which this people can make for
themselves, consequently English goods are sure of meeting with a quick
sale. Perhaps it may be from prejudice, but certainly the idea I had of
England before I left it has been raised many degrees since I have had
an opportunity of comparing it with other countries. But now for some
news respecting Gibraltar itself, which has during my absence been a
scene of Confusion, first by a dreadful gale