wn in Spain, those who are unacquainted with
the country might expect a better. I have so much to say that I cannot
enter into a minute account of the famous Palace of the Alhambra and
other Curiosities in the Town, which is most beautifully situated at the
foot of a range of snow-covered Mountains at the extremity of what is
said to be the most luxuriant and delightful valley in Spain. I hope for
the credit of the Inhabitants that it is not so, as certainly it is in a
disgraceful state of Cultivation, and were it not for the Acqueducts
erected by the Moors for the convenience of watering the land would, I
fear, in a few years be burnt up by the intense heat of summer. Its
chief produce is Corn and oil; silk and Wine are also cultivated, but
the cold of winter sometimes injures the two latter. The place is badly
peopled and has no trade; it is chiefly supported by being the chief
criminal port of Spain, and the richest people are consequently the
Lawyers. We saw the baths of Alhambra in a state very different from
what they usually are--actually frozen over and the Ice nearly an Inch
thick. I must say I was greatly disappointed with these famed remains of
Moorish Magnificence, tho' certainly when everything was kept in order,
the fountains all playing, it must have been very different; at present
it is falling fast to ruin. The Governor is a man appointed by the
Prince of Peace,[13] and I believe would be unwilling to bestow any
attention on anything in the world but his own person, of which by all
accounts he takes special care. We returned to Malaga through Loja and
Antequerra, both Moorish towns. At Malaga we were detained by Contrary
winds for three weeks; we might, indeed, have passed our time less
advantageously at other places, as we experienced much unexpected
Civility & saw a great deal of Spanish Society. Wearied at length with
waiting for Winds, we determined to set out on our return to the Rock by
land, and accordingly hired 4 horses, and, under the most favourable
auspices, left Malaga. We soon found that even a Spanish sky could not
be trusted; it began before we had completed half our first day's
journey to pour with rain. To return was impossible, as we had forded
the first river. In short, for three days we suffered Every
Inconvenience which can be conceived, but were still to meet with
another disappointment, for on the Morning of the day in which we had
certainly calculated to arrive at Gibraltar we cam