On entering one of these Ventas, or Inns, you find yourself in
the Midst of Jack Asses and Mules, the necks of which, being usually
adorned with bells, produce a Music highly entertaining to a traveller
after a long day's Journey over these delightful roads. If you can force
your way through this Crowd of Musical Quadrupeds it is necessary that
you should attempt to find out the Landlord and petition for a room,
which in general may be had, and if you are fortunate, Mattrasses are
laid on the floor. Eating, however, is always out of the question. It is
absolutely necessary to carry your own Stock and look for your self if
a frying Pan can be found. If you are very much tired and the Bugs,
Mosquitos, Fleas, and other insects (sent into the World, I believe, to
torment Mankind) are also tired or satiated with sucking the Blood from
the Travellers the preceding night, you may chance to sleep till 3
o'clock in the Morning, when the Carriers begin to load their beasts and
prepare for the day's Journey. The pleasure of travelling is also
considerably diminished by the numbers of Crosses by the road side,
which, being all stuck up wherever a murder has been committed, are very
unpleasant hints, and you are constantly put in mind of your latter End
by these confounded Monuments of Mortality. Fortunately, we met with no
Tromboners on the road, and hitherto we have saved the Country the
Expence of Erecting 3 Crosses on our account. At last we arrived at
Granada, the 3rd Town in Spain in Extent, being surpassed only by
Seville and Toledo. You will, I suppose, expect a long account of the
Alhambra and Romantic Gardens of the Generalife, a minute account of the
curiosities in the City and a long string of etceteras relative to the
place. You must, however, remain in ignorance of all these things till
we meet, as at present I have neither time or inclination or paper
sufficient to repeat my adventures and observations: suffice it to say
that on the whole I was much disappointed both with the Alhambra and
Granada, which are I cannot say lasting Monuments, for they are falling
fast to ruin. Of the Indolence and negligence of the people, you will
scarcely believe that so large a Town so near the sea, and situated in
one of the finest vales in Spain, is almost without Trade of any
Sort--neither troubling itself with importations or exerting its powers
to provide Materials for Exportation. The Capt. Genl., however, is doing
all he can to re