a hotel on the site of the present Netherlands,
the gastronomical trail of the past may be followed. Five years ago it
was said that New York had more good restaurants than any city in the
world except Paris. Today there is no longer the exception. In the
spirit that has long moved the people of Marseilles to the saying: "If
Paris had a Cannebiere it would be a little Marseilles," an American
city has said: "Paris might cook as well as New Orleans if it only had
New Orleans's markets." To an even greater arrogance in its culinary
past and present New York has a right. Turning over some of the menus of
yesterday is recalling when the world was young. Lost youth is in the
memory of "the wharves, and the slips, and the sea-tides tossing free;
and the Spanish sailors with bearded lips, and the beauty and mystery of
the ships, and the magic of the sea." It is also in the memory of the
flavour of certain delectable, never-to-be-forgotten repasts.

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