one.
Nothing exactly similar is remembered elsewhere. In the main, however,
the whole structure is reminiscent of much that, drawn from various
sources, is the best of its kind.

The interior is divided into three naves by numerous great and small
pillars of a polygonal form, the capitals only bearing any traces of
modelling.

The high altar is decorated with some good sculptures, and there are a
series of paintings, which might be modern, or might be ancient, so far
as their unconvincing merits go.

Of the attraction of the waters and the pleasures of the society found
at Wiesbaden during the season, nothing shall have place here, save to
remark that the springs were famous even in the times of the Romans.

There is a "Greek chapel," built in 1855, at two kilometres from
Wiesbaden. In the style of the sacred edifices of Moscow, this chapel
was erected by the Emperor of Russia and by the Grand Duke Adolphe of
Nassau to serve as the mausoleum of the Duchess Elizabeth of Nassau, a
Russian princess.

[Illustration: GREEK CHAPEL, _WIESBADEN_]

This fine memorial was also the work of the architect Hoffmann, and,
though bizarre and unbeautiful enough from certain points of view, it is
a highly successful transplanting of an exotic.

[Illustration]

XIII

HEIDELBERG AND MANNHEIM

_Heidelberg_

As the ancient capital of the Lower Palatinate, Heidelberg early came
into great prominence, though many of the details of its early history
are lost in obscurity. The Romans have left traces of their passage, but
the history of the early years of Christianity is but vaguely surmised.

Conrad of Hohenstaufen, brother of the red-bearded Frederick, came here,
in 1148, as the first Count Palatine of the Rhine. The ruins of what is
supposed to have been his once famous chateau are yet to be seen on the
Geissberg.

In 1228 Heidelberg was declared the capital of the Palatinate under Otto
of Wittelsbach, and became the residence of the Electors, who, for five
hundred years, inhabited that other and more popularly famous chateau,
which is known to all travellers on the Rhine as the "Castle of
Heidelberg." In 1724, they chose Mannheim as their official residence.

Few cities of Europe have so frequently undergone such horrors of
civilized warfare, if warfare ever _is_ civilized, as has Heidelberg,
though mostly it is associated in the popular mind of personally
conducted tourists as a city of wine and beer drinking and