n less than twenty years. The general plan is grandiose and it has a
central cupola--replacing a tower which was in danger of subsiding--held
aloft by twelve hardy columns, on which are ranged in symmetrical order
statues of the apostles.

The plan is unusual and resembles no Gothic structure elsewhere, hence
may be considered as a type standing by itself.

The exterior shows little or nothing of the highly developed Gothic
which awaits one when viewing the interior. There are no flying
buttresses, the walls seemingly supporting themselves, and yet they are
not clumsy. The piers of the chapel somewhat perform the functions of
buttresses, and that perhaps makes possible the unusual arrangement.

The church of St. Gangolphe, on the market-place, has a singularly
beautiful and very lofty tower, which gives to whoever has the courage
to make its rather perilous ascent one of the most charming prospects of
the valley of the Moselle possible to imagine.

The chief of Treves's other churches are: the church of the Jesuits,
since ceded to the Protestants; St. Gervais, which has a tomb to Bishop
Hontheim, a most learned man and a great benefactor of Treves in days
gone by; St. Antoine; and St. Paul.

The country around Treves, on the Moselle,--the famous Treves
Circle,--ranks high as a wine-growing region, though your true German
wine-drinker calls all Moselle wine "_Unnosel Wein_."

These wines of the Moselle are, to be sure, secondary to those of the
vineyards of the Rhine and the Main, but the varieties are very
numerous.

A Dutch burgomaster once bought of the Abbey of Maximinus--a famous
wine-growing establishment as well as a religious community--a variety
known as Gruenhaueser, in 1793, for eleven hundred and forty-four florins
a vat of something less than three hundred gallons. It was known as the
nectar of Moselle, and "made men cheerful, and did good the next day,
leaving the bosom and head without disorder." Such was the old-time
monkish estimate and endorsement of its virtues.

[Illustration]

XXIII

BONN

Bonn in the popular mind is noteworthy chiefly for its famous
university, and for being the birthplace of Beethoven.

The city was one of the fifty fortresses built by Drusus on the Rhine,
and the only Rhenish city, with the exception of Cologne, which has kept
its Roman appellation. It is mentioned by Tacitus both as _Bonna_ and
_Bonensia castra_.

The cathedral is as famous as the univers