ohenstaufen, who was so inspired by the enthusiasm of the holy man
that he took the cross himself.

It was in the cathedral of Speyer, too, that St. Bernard added to the
canticle of "_Salva Regina_" these words, "_O Clemens! O Pia! O Dulcis
Virgo Maria_," which have since been sung in all the Roman churches of
the universe.

An ancient legend recounts how one day St. Bernard had come late to the
church, when the statue of the Virgin cried out to him: "_O Bernharde,
cur tum tarde?_" and that the saint, with very little respect on this
occasion, replied: "_Mulier taceat in ecclesia_." "Since that time,"
says the legend, "the Madonna has never spoken."

XII

CARLSRUHE, DARMSTADT, AND WIESBADEN

_Carlsruhe_

Carlsruhe is modern, very modern, and is a favourite resting-place with
those who would study the language and customs of Germany. In fact,
there is not much else to attract one, except a certain conventional
society air, which seems to pervade all of its two score thousand
inhabitants.

The architectural treasures of the city mostly bear eighteenth-century
dates, from the great monumental gateway, by which one enters the city,
and on which one reads, "_Regnante Carolo Frederico, M.B., S.R.I.P.E._,"
to the Academy of Fine Arts, really the most beautiful structure of the
city, which dates only from 1845, though reproducing the Byzantine style
of the early ages.

The great palace designed by Weinbrunner branches out like the leaves of
a fan, and, if not the equal of Versailles or Fontainebleau, suggests
them not a little in general effect.

The two chief churches of Carlsruhe are in no way great ecclesiastical
edifices, or of any intrinsic artistic worth whatever. Both the
principal Protestant place of worship and the Catholic edifice are from
the designs of Weinbrunner, and are a confused mixture of pretty much
all the well recognized details of style, with no convincing features of
any. They are pretentious, gaudy, and quite out of keeping with
religious feeling.

The Catholic edifice is a poor, ungainly imitation of the Pantheon at
Rome, which reflects no dignity upon its author or the religion which it
houses.

The Protestant church has its facade ornamented with six Corinthian
columns--a weakly pseudo-classic style--which lead up to a tower which
would be suitable enough to a country-side German parish church, but
which, in a prosperous and gay little metropolis of pleasure, like
Carlsruhe, is