though these latter be, and in this journey my taste was
amply gratified, especially at Ravenna, where the church of San
Vitale and the Basilica of St. Apollinare in Classis, both built
early in the 6th century, are the most magnificent specimens
imaginable. Here also is the tomb of Theodore, a most wonderful
building; the remains of his palace and numberless other objects of
interest, too tedious to mention. Every church is full of them, and
most valuable MSS. abound in the libraries. I like the history of
the Middle Ages, because one feels that there is something in common
between them and us; their names still exist in their descendants,
who often inhabit the very palaces they dwelt in, and their very
portraits, by the great masters, still hang in their halls; whereas
we know nothing about the Greeks and Romans except their public
deeds--their private life is a blank to us. Our journey through the
Apennines was most beautiful, passing for days under the shade of
magnificent oak forests or valleys rich in wine, oil, grain, and
silk. We deviated from the main road for a short distance to Gubbio,
to see the celebrated Eugubian tables, which are as sharp as if they
had been engraved yesterday, but in a lost language. We stopped to
rest at Perugia, but all our friends were at their country seats,
which we regretted. The country round Perugia is unrivalled for
richness and beauty, but it rained the morning we resumed our
journey. It signified the less as we had been previously at Citta
della Pieve and Chiusi; so we proceeded to Orvieto in fine weather,
still through oak forests. Orvieto is situated on the top of an
escarped hill, very like the hill forts of India, and apparently as
inaccessible; yet, by dint of numberless turns and windings, we did
get up, but only in time for bed. Next morning we saw the sun rise
on the most glorious cathedral. After all we had seen we were
completely taken by surprise, and were filled with the highest
admiration at the extreme beauty and fine taste of this remarkable
building....
Your affectionate mother,
MARY SOMERVILLE.
* * * * *
FROM MISS JOANNA BAILLIE TO MRS. SOMERVILLE
HAMPSTEAD, _December 27th, 1843_.
MY DEAR MRS. SOMERVILLE,
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