the Caid's lieutenant a fine-looking fellow,
rejoicing in the famous name of Abd-el-Kader, though he was no
relation to the renowned chief. He gave a long description of the
capture of a boar, that had been wounded by some Arabs; how he caught
the brute by the hoofs, gagged it, and brought it home alive. Mr.
----, he also informed us, had been surprised, about a month before,
by a lion, as he was returning at dusk from Milianah. There were many
lions in the vicinity, he added; and promised that his friend the Caid
should treat us to a lion-hunt on our return, if we came back this
way.

Then we started, Abd-el-Kader accompanying us to show us a short
way over the mountains to the caravanserai of Oued-el-Massin, where
we were to pass the night, and expected to find our luggage. We
were prepared to find the river very high, and our anticipations were
not deceived. Abd-el-Kader admonished me to wait on the bank while
he went in to try if there was any getting through. He returned and
asked if my horse was good, and if I was willing to follow him. On
receiving my affirmative answer, he told me to fix my eyes on the
opposite shore, and, above all things, to abstain from looking at
the water, which was tearing along at a tremendous rate; if I
neglected his instructions, I should infallibly be carried away and
drowned. I started, and, by dint of spurring, managed to get
across, though my horse plunged up to his shoulder, and at one
moment I thought I was a "gone coon." Abd-el-Kader, the undaunted,
then went back once more for the second horse, which he dragged
across in due time by the bridle. Then he pointed out to us the road
over the mountain to Oued-el-Massin; nor did he think it derogatory to
his dignity to accept a reward for the trouble he had taken on our
behalf.

In spite of the valiant lieutenant's directions, the road was a very
difficult one to find. After wandering about in the forest through a
number of out-of-the-way paths, we managed at last to stumble on an
Arab house or two, where the promise of a supply of powder prevailed
with an Arab, and he piloted us down to the caravanserai, where we
arrived at about six P.M., wet to the skin, and weary with a most
fatiguing day's march. We found our luggage had preceded us by about
half an hour; so we had a change of clothes, and sat down gleefully to
a capital dinner in very comfortable quarters. These caravanserais are
a famous institution. They are built by the Fr