unted my horse for the ruins, as my friend's
vessel did not start as expected that day, owing to the calm.

On passing the gate of Goulette, several Arab convicts, in chains,
shouted at me for something; what it was, I ignore; perhaps they asked
for backsheesh, or tobacco, or powder, fine or coarse; or, may be,
they called me a dog of a Giaour, and cursed my relations and their
limbs. This Goulette appears to be the chief place for the Arab
malefactors, and they are mainly employed in improving the high road
between Goulette and Tunis, and also in repairing the fortifications.

The afternoon was beautiful, though hot. As it wanted some time to
dinner at Tunis, I made a _detour_ on my return to the ruins, and it
requires a fine air to make you enjoy fine scenery. There was
scarcely a ripple on the blue Mediterranean. Beautiful trees of every
description, olive and orange trees, oleanders, and others, grew to
the very base of the mountain, and sent up a delicious perfume. I
visited the chapel of St. Louis, from which one enjoys a most
delicious prospect. It is built over some god's temple--whose, I
forget, or even whether a Roman or Punic one; but this is dedicated to
the true God and Christian worship, in remembrance of that venerable
French king, who is said to have perished here, while on his way to
Palestine, to fight the Moslem. Peace to his ashes! However, I
soon left the hill to re-descend, for I was very thirsty; all of a
sudden, behind an olive bush, I saw a head, black as ink, pop out;
I hallooed to it first in English, then in Italian. No effect. I saw
a female figure disappear behind a cottage, and out rushed a fine
tall Arab, with menacing gesture, and more menacing language. I was
in his garden. "A glass of water, please," said I, in Italian. Still
no effect. I thought he was going to be savage, when, from behind
the house popped, or rather rolled out, another little naked,
curly-headed, black ball--a triennial by his looks--the Arab's only
boy, no doubt. He was so irresistibly comic in appearance, that I
burst into a fit of laughter. The man's face changed in a moment. I
suppose he thought I was admiring the child. He immediately
understood what I required, which he brought in such a large cup,
that I thought it was intended for a pail. I nearly emptied it,
however. He then volunteered bread and olives, which, however, I
declined, to spoil my dinner. We then made mutual signs of greeting,
and parted. Had