ceed. So, of necessity, I turned into the
auberge, and had a very good dinner, enlivened by a serenade from a
legion of frogs, croaking dolefully in the neighbouring marshes.

Getting away from El Afroun by six o'clock next morning, I found
myself at Blidah by half-past seven. The cavalry horses were just
turning out on the plains, and looked very handsome as I rode into the
town. At Blidah, where I breakfasted, the sun was hot enough to burn
my face in a most unequivocal manner, and to necessitate the purchase
of a new hat. On arriving at Bouffanieh, I got off my horse, which by
this time had fairly fallen lame, and took the diligence into Algiers.
At Bouffanieh I was much amused at the proceedings of a group of
Arabs, who were squatting on the ground, selling oranges. Their first
customer was a drunken Frenchman, who came staggering up, and began
chaffing the vendors; but they evidently got the better of him in no
time, and he retired in confusion. Next came a grave, steady-looking
Spaniard, who, after much bargaining, marched off with _one_ orange.
He was followed by a little girl, who very quickly got hold of three.
I thought Algiers improved on a second view.

Next day I went for a ride to the Maison Carree, with De Warne and
Captain Thouars, of the _Euphrates_. We had a most magnificent view
over the plain of the Metidja. This was the first night of the
Rhamazan. I visited the mosques, which have been thrown open to
Europeans since the French occupation. Thence I proceeded to view a
strange religious or fanatic ceremony of the Mussulmans; some Swedish
naval officers were with us. The whole affair reminded me of a meeting
of Jumpers, or Ranters. There are no priests to take part in it. The
men stand round in a circle, reciting prayers to Allah, and calling on
Mahomet, while they work their bodies violently backwards and
forwards, till they lash themselves into a state of perfect frenzy.
One fanatic more zealous than the rest then rushes forward, cuts
himself with a knife, and stands on the sharp edge of the weapon,
which is held by another. The chaunt or psalm is then renewed, and
another devotee comes forward howling; snatches a portion of prickly
pear, and actually devours it ravenously. Then another exceedingly
zealous performer--whose face, by the way, reminded me strangely of
the portraits of Disraeli in _Punch_--seized some red-hot coals, and
held them in his mouth for a time, afterwards proceeding to swallo