ut in the rock to convey the huge
masses of stone from the famous quarries down to the shore. The
descent looked almost vertical, and we watched two immense loads go
slowly down by means of a huge cylinder and chains, which looked as
if the world might hang upon them in safety. I lay down on the
summit of the rock while my father went off exploring further, and
the perfect stillness of the solitude was like a spell. There was
not a sound of life but the low, drowsy humming of the bees in the
stone-rooted tufts of fragrant thyme. On our return we had to run
down the steep, slippery slopes, striking our feet hard to the
earth to avoid falling; firm walking footing there was none. When
we joined Dall we found, to our utter dismay, that it was five
o'clock; we bundled ourselves _pele-mele_ into the boat and bade
the boatman row, row, for dear life; but while we were indulging in
the picturesque he had been indulging in fourpenny, which made him
very talkative, and his tongue went faster than his arms. I longed
for John to make our boat fly over the smooth, burnished sea; the
oars came out of the water like long bars of diamond dropping gold.
We touched shore just at six, swallowed three mouthfuls of dinner,
and off to the theater. The play was "Venice Preserved." I dressed
as quick as lightning, and was ready in time. The house was not
very good, and I am sure I should have wondered if it had been,
when the moon is just rising over the fresh tide that is filling
the basin, and a delicious salt breeze blows along the beach, and
the stars are lighting their lamps in heaven; and surely nobody but
those who cannot help it would be breathing the gas and smoke and
vile atmosphere of the playhouse. I played well, and when we came
home ran down and stood a few minutes by the sea; but the moon had
set, and the dark palpitating water only reflected the long line of
lights from the houses all along the curving shore.

_Friday, August 12th, Portsmouth._-- ... The hotel where we are
staying is quite a fine house, and the Assembly balls used to be
held here, and so there is a fine large "dancing-hall deserted" of
which I avail myself as a music-room, having entire and solitary
possession of it and a piano.... At the theater the house was good,
and I played well....