lves in our own
dear land. But the climate here is simply perfect. Of course it is hot,
but there are always fresh breezes.... We have our principal meal at
twelve o'clock, and spend the after part of the day on shore ...
bathing, gathering shells, knitting, or reading. Our Japanese cook and
steward just sets out the table with cold meats, fruit, and cake so that
we can take our other meal at any time in the evening that suits us.

"Fanny and I are dressed like natives, in two garments. As we have to
wade to and from the boat in landing and coming back, we discard
stockings, and on the sands we usually go barefoot entirely. Louis wears
only a shirt and trousers with the legs and arms rolled up as far as
they will go, and he is always barefooted. You will therefore not be
surprised to hear that we are all as red as lobsters. It is a strange
irresponsible half savage life, and I sometimes wonder if we shall ever
be able to return to civilized habits again.

[Illustration: South Sea houses]

"The natives are very simple and kindly people. The Roman Catholic
priests have persuaded them to give up their constant wars and the
practice of cannibalism, though only within recent years....

"Louis has learned a good many words of the language, and with the help
of signs can contrive to carry on a conversation, but I have stuck fast
with two words: '_ka-oha_' which means 'How do you do?' 'thank you,' and
'good bye,' and I am not quite sure how much else, and '_Mitai_,'
meaning good, nice, pretty, kind. I don't expect to get beyond these,
but it is wonderful how much one can express with them....

"The natives have got names for us all. Louis was at first 'the old
man,' much to his distress; but now they call him '_Ona_' meaning owner
of the yacht, a name he greatly prefers to the first. Fanny is _Vahine_,
or wife; I am the _old woman_, and Lloyd rejoices in the name of _Mate
Karahi_, the young man with glass eyes (spectacles). Perhaps it is a
compliment here to be called old, as it is in China, at any rate, one
native told Louis that he himself was old, but his mother was not!...

"A native dance was got up for our benefit. None of the dancing-women
appeared, but five men dressed in shirt and trousers, danced together
with spirit and grace. The music was provided by a drum, made out of an
old tin box. Many of the steps reminded me of a Highland reel, but were
curiously mixed up with calisthenic, and even gymnastic exercises;