own toward Evansville.
Green River Towhead, two miles below, claimed us for the night. There
is a shanty, midway on the island, and at the lower end the landing
of a railway-transfer. We have our camp at the upper end, in a bed
of spotless white sand, thick grown to dwarf willows. Entangled
drift-wood lies about in monster heaps, lodged in depressions of the
land, or against stout tree-trunks; a low bar of gravel connects our
home with Green River Island, lying close against the Indiana bank;
sand-flies freely joined us at dinner, and I hear, as I write, the
drone of a solitary mosquito,--the first in many days; while upon the
bar, at sunset, a score of turkey-buzzards held silent council, some
of them occasionally rising and wheeling about in mid-air, then slowly
lighting and stretching their necks, and flapping their wings most
solemnly, before rejoining the conference.
* * * * *
Cypress Bend, Tuesday, 5th.--The temperature had materially fallen
during the night, and the morning opened gray and hazy. Evansville,
Ind. (783 miles), made a charming Turneresque study, as her steeples
and factory chimneys developed through the mist. It is a fine,
well-built town, of some fifty thousand inhabitants, with a beautiful
little postoffice in the Gothic style--a refutation, this, of the
well-worn assertion that there are no creditable government buildings
in our small American cities. A railway bridge here crosses the Ohio,
numerous sawmills line the bank; altogether, there is business bustle,
the like of which we have not seen since leaving Louisville.
Henderson (795 miles) is a substantial Kentucky town of nine thousand
souls, with large tobacco interests, we are told, ranking next to
Louisville in this regard. Through the morning, the mist had been
thickening. While we were passing beneath the railway bridge at
Henderson, thunder sounded, and the western sky suddenly blackened.
Pulling rapidly in to the town shore, shelter was found beneath the
overhanging deck of a deserted wharf-boat. We had just completed
preparations with the rubber blankets and ponchos, when the deluge
came. But the sheltering deck was not water-tight; soon the rain came
pouring in upon us through the uncaulked cracks, and we were nearly as
badly off in our close-smelling quarters as in the open. However, we
were a merry party under there, with the Doctor giving us a touch of
"Br'er Rabbit," and the boy relating a fantastic dr
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