ndred doomed men, incorrigible housebreakers or systematic
assassins. The food of all classes of criminals is the same, whatever
the offence, and consists of twenty-four ounces of bread, with
half-a-pint measure of beans and some oil--a basin of cabbage soup,
without meat, for dinner, and meat once in fourteen days: there are
eight thousand out-of-doors convicts, many of whom being under
sentence for a less space _than two years_, work in their own
clothes--which is, of course, a considerable saving to government.
Although all the galley-slave establishments are full, no place swarms
like Naples with so many meritorious candidates for the _red_ and
_yellow_ liveries of the state.
ST CARLO, &c.
St Carlo is, as the guide-books tell us, "a very fine theatre." What
we particularly like, is the absence of all _side-lights round its
boxes_. Two hundred burners, arranged in three rows round a small
chandelier, give just light enough to set off the fine chastened white
and gold, and the one quiet fresco which embellishes the ceiling. A
pit of vast size, divided into comfortable sittings, six tiers of
boxes, and an orchestra of great space, suited to the extraordinary
size of the house, secure a far less adulterated playhouse atmosphere
than we are used to; and so exempt from the ordinary inconveniences,
that we were able to sit out the _Semiramide_, even with Ronzi di
Begnis, now old and out of keeping, for the heroine. Surely _she
never_ should have been Semiramis, even in her palmy day! Actors and
actresses _will_ not know that words written for them, scenery and
dresses adapted for them, and attitudes invented for them, can never
_make_ them the personages mentioned in the playbill. On returning
home, we stood at our balcony gazing on the lovely face of a true
Naples night--a night beyond description!--the whole vault of heaven
lighted by one light: a full moon, like a subdued sunshine over earth
and water. A world of light, that shone on a world of darkness,
tinging the air, gilding the mountain-tops, and making the sea run
like melted phosphorus. And what a silence abroad! not the perilous
cessation of sound which so often only anticipates the storm; nor the
sultry stillness of an exhausting noon; but a mighty and godlike
display, as it were, of the first full moon after creation shining on
an entranced world!
POZZUOLI.
An _amphitheatre_ is one of those few ruins that leave no problem to
solve. Here we have a
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