gladly cropped a few twigs to make a bed and to protect us from
the frozen ground, still white from a fall of snow which took place in
the afternoon. We were about to cut down one of these trees for firewood
but our guide solicited us to spare them and made us understand by signs
that they had been long serviceable to his nation and that we ought to
content ourselves with a few of the smaller branches. As soon as we
comprehended his request we complied with it and our attendants, having
with some trouble grubbed up a sufficient quantity of roots of the dwarf
birch to make a fire, we were enabled to prepare a comfortable supper of
reindeer's meat which we despatched with the appetites which travelling
in this country never fails to ensure. We then stretched ourselves out on
the pine brush and, covered by a single blanket, enjoyed a night of sound
repose. The small quantity of bed-clothes we carried induced us to sleep
without undressing. Old Keskarrah followed a different plan; he stripped
himself to the skin and, having toasted his body for a short time over
the embers of the fire, he crept under his deer-skin and rags, previously
spread out as smoothly as possible and, coiling himself up in a circular
form, fell asleep instantly. This custom of undressing to the skin even
when lying in the open air is common to all the Indian tribes. The
thermometer at sunset stood at 29 degrees.
Resuming our journey next morning we pursued a northerly course but had
to make a considerable circuit round the western ends of two lakes whose
eastern extremities were hidden from our view. The march was very
uncomfortable as the wind was cold and there was a constant fall of snow
until noon; our guide too persisted in taking us over the summit of every
hill that lay in the route so that we had the full benefit of the breeze.
We forded two streams in the afternoon flowing between small lakes and,
being wet, did not much relish having to halt whilst Keskarrah pursued a
herd of reindeer; but there was no alternative as he set off and followed
them without consulting our wishes. The old man loaded himself with the
skin and some meat of the animal he killed in addition to his former
burden; but after walking two miles, finding his charge too heavy for his
strength, he spread the skin on the rock and deposited the meat under
some stones, intending to pick them up on our return.
We put up at sunset on the borders of a large lake, having come t
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