er
oceans, though I feel quite safe in saying that it is not more pacific
except in name. It is often wild enough in one part or another. I once
knew a writer who, after saying beautiful things about the sea, passed
through a Pacific hurricane, and he became a changed man. But where,
after all, would be the poetry of the sea were there no wild waves? At
last here was the _Spray_ in the midst of a sea of coral. The sea
itself might be called smooth indeed, but coral rocks are always
rough, sharp, and dangerous. I trusted now to the mercies of the Maker
of all reefs, keeping a good lookout at the same time for perils on
every hand.

Lo! the Barrier Reef and the waters of many colors studded all about
with enchanted islands! I behold among them after all many safe
harbors, else my vision is astray. On the 24th of May, the sloop,
having made one hundred and ten miles a day from Danger Point, now
entered Whitsunday Pass, and that night sailed through among the
islands. When the sun rose next morning I looked back and regretted
having gone by while it was dark, for the scenery far astern was
varied and charming.

CHAPTER XV

Arrival at Port Denison, Queensland--A lecture--Reminiscences of
Captain Cook--Lecturing for charity at Cooktown--A happy escape from a
coral reef--Home Island, Sunday Island, Bird Island--An American
pearl-fisherman--Jubilee at Thursday Island--A new ensign for the
_Spray_--Booby Island--Across the Indian Ocean--Christmas Island.

On the morning of the 26th Gloucester Island was close aboard, and the
_Spray_ anchored in the evening at Port Denison, where rests, on a
hill, the sweet little town of Bowen, the future watering place and
health-resort of Queensland. The country all about here had a
healthful appearance.

The harbor was easy of approach, spacious and safe, and afforded
excellent holding-ground. It was quiet in Bowen when the _Spray_
arrived, and the good people with an hour to throw away on the second
evening of her arrival came down to the School of Arts to talk about
the voyage, it being the latest event. It was duly advertised in the
two little papers, "Boomerang" and "Nully Nully," in the one the day
before the affair came off, and in the other the day after, which was
all the same to the editor, and, for that matter, it was the same to
me.

Besides this, circulars were distributed with a flourish, and the
"best bellman" in Australia was employed. But I could have keelhaul