my cap again to the pilot of the _Pinta_.
Lady Bruce, in a note to the _Spray_ at Port Louis, said Grenada was a
lovely island, and she wished the sloop might call there on the voyage
home. When the _Spray_ arrived, I found that she had been fully
expected. "How so?" I asked. "Oh, we heard that you were at
Mauritius," they said, "and from Mauritius, after meeting Sir Charles
Bruce, our old governor, we knew you would come to Grenada." This was
a charming introduction, and it brought me in contact with people
worth knowing.
The _Spray_ sailed from Grenada on the 28th of May, and coasted along
under the lee of the Antilles, arriving at the island of Dominica on
the 30th, where, for the want of knowing better, I cast anchor at the
quarantine ground; for I was still without a chart of the islands, not
having been able to get one even at Grenada. Here I not only met with
further disappointment in the matter, but was threatened with a fine
for the mistake I made in the anchorage. There were no ships either at
the quarantine or at the commercial roads, and I could not see that it
made much difference where I anchored. But a negro chap, a sort of
deputy harbormaster, coming along, thought it did, and he ordered me
to shift to the other anchorage, which, in truth, I had already
investigated and did not like, because of the heavier roll there from
the sea. And so instead of springing to the sails at once to shift, I
said I would leave outright as soon as I could procure a chart, which
I begged he would send and get for me. "But I say you mus' move befo'
you gets anyt'ing't all," he insisted, and raising his voice so that
all the people alongshore could hear him, he added, "An' jes now!"
Then he flew into a towering passion when they on shore snickered to
see the crew of the _Spray_ sitting calmly by the bulwark instead of
hoisting sail. "I tell you dis am quarantine" he shouted, very much
louder than before. "That's all right, general," I replied; "I want to
be quarantined anyhow." "That's right, boss," some one on the beach
cried, "that's right; you get quarantined," while others shouted to
the deputy to "make de white trash move 'long out o' dat." They were
about equally divided on the island for and against me. The man who
had made so much fuss over the matter gave it up when he found that I
wished to be quarantined, and sent for an all-important half-white,
who soon came alongside, starched from clue to earing. He stood i
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