r the many canals
for irrigation?

Sir Charles McGregor, Goldsmid, Bellew, Major MacMahon, Napier, and one
or two others who have visited the country north of the Zirreh, can fully
testify to the amazing remains of former prosperity in Sistan and
south-west Afghanistan.

Sir Charles McGregor gives an amusing receipt for those who wish to know
what the water at Godar-i-Chah is like without having the trouble of
going there. "Take the first nasty-looking water you can find. Mix salt
with it until it tastes as nasty as it looks, then impregnate it with gas
from a London street lamp, and add a little bilge-water, shake vigorously
and it is ready for use." Major McMahon also testifies to the accuracy of
the above receipt, but, he adds, "it was not nearly so bad as much we
found elsewhere."

[Illustration: In Afghanistan. Who are you?]

[Illustration: In the Afghan Desert. Afghan Caravan Men.]

The Zirreh seemed just like a great stretch of country under snow, the
thick salt sediment was so beautifully white. It formed a deep depression
in the centre. The second deposits to the east of the Zirreh were of a
similar shape, with salt extremely thick, but not quite so extensive as
in the Zirreh. Near the edge of both dry lakes there was absolutely no
vegetation, but most beautifully coloured stones could be found, such as
red and brown jasper and agatescent quartz, chalcedony, white and brown
limestone.

As I was returning towards the Beluchistan boundary among the sand hills
I came upon about a dozen Afghans, who looked as suspiciously at me as I
did at them. At first I thought they were soldiers, and as I did not much
care to be caught by them and have my goods confiscated--no Englishmen
being allowed in their territory--I requested them to stop some way off
and explain what they wanted, while I was snapshotting them. They had a
great big white fluffy dog with them who seemed very anxious to have a go
at the Sahib. One man was asked to come forward alone, which he did with
his turban right over his eyes, while the others formed a line behind
and appeared most puzzled as to what was going to happen. He said they
were glad to see me in their country and that they were "good people,"
and would not injure nor trouble me in any way; so I gave them a small
present, which seemed to please them much, and they became quite
friendly. They seemed to have some coarse humour about them and were
rather boisterous. Their faces, however