iew of the Afghan desert, with its two extensive salt deposits,
can be obtained from Laskerisha, a name given to a brackish well on the
hill side (3,590 feet) with a ditch and hollow next to it for the
convenience of camels. A triangular unroofed shelter has been erected
some 80 feet below the well on the hill slope, and other wells have been
bored close by, the water of which is undrinkable. This was the highest
point of the road 3,590 feet, on that march. Before reaching it we saw a
castle-like structure surmounting a peak of the mountain that we had been
following to the south; there appeared to be actual windows in it,
showing the light through, and a track leading up to it. Unfortunately,
the sun--quite blinding--was just behind it when I passed it, and I could
not well ascertain with my telescope whether it was a natural formation
of rock or a real ancient fortress, nor could I get any information on
the subject from the natives, and it was too far out of my track for me
to go and visit it.

On our descent on the south-east side of the hill we came across
semi-spherical sand mounds in great numbers; the mountains on our right
were apparently of volcanic formation. They were very highly coloured,
generally bright red with green summits; then there were mountains deep
red all over, and further on stood one green from top to bottom, although
there was not a thread of vegetation upon it. At the foot of the
mountains on the edge of the desert were a few dried up tamarisks.

We stopped at Mahommed Raza-chah, where there are five wells, three of
good water and two brackish ones. There was a mere mud _thana_ at this
place, but wood and bricks were being brought up to construct a bungalow.

[Illustration: Rest House at Mahommed Raza Chah overlooking Afghan
Desert.]

A number of Beluch were encamped here in their little black tents, hardly
five feet high, and with one side of the tent raised up on two sticks.
The interior of the tents seemed to be a mass of rags and dirt, among
which some primitive implements, such as a wooden pestle and mortar, for
pounding wheat, and a bowl or two, could be detected. Otherwise they were
most miserable. The tents seemed mostly in the possession of women,
children and decrepit old men, the younger folks seeking a livelier life
further afield. It is often in the most humble places, however, that one
finds unexpected charms.

On the alarm being given that an intruding stranger was at hand