in the church, but that few people
attended, and those few were almost entirely from the country. He said
that neither he nor the clergyman were natives of Wrexham. He showed me
the Welsh Church Bible, and at my request read a few verses from the
sacred volume. He seemed a highly intelligent man. I gave him
something, which appeared to be more than he expected, and departed,
after inquiring of him the road to Llangollen.

I crossed a bridge, for there is a bridge and a stream too at Wrexham.
The road at first bore due west, but speedily took a southerly direction.
I moved rapidly over an undulating country; a region of hills, or rather
of mountains lay on my right hand. At the entrance of a small village a
poor, sickly-looking woman asked me for charity.

"Are you Welsh or English?" said I.

"Welsh," she replied; "but I speak both languages, as do all the people
here."

I gave her a halfpenny; she wished me luck, and I proceeded. I passed
some huge black buildings which a man told me were collieries, and
several carts laden with coal, and soon came to Rhiwabon--a large village
about half way between Wrexham and Llangollen. I observed in this place
nothing remarkable, but an ancient church. My way from hence lay nearly
west. I ascended a hill, from the top of which I looked down into a
smoky valley. I descended, passing by a great many collieries, in which
I observed grimy men working amidst smoke and flame. At the bottom of
the hill near a bridge I turned round. A ridge to the east particularly
struck my attention; it was covered with dusky edifices, from which
proceeded thundering sounds, and puffs of smoke. A woman passed me going
towards Rhiwabon; I pointed to the ridge and asked its name; I spoke
English. The woman shook her head and replied "Dim Saesneg."

"This is as it should be," said I to myself; "I now feel I am in Wales."
I repeated the question in Welsh.

"Cefn Bach," she replied--which signifies the little ridge.

"Diolch iti," I replied, and proceeded on my way.

I was now in a wild valley--enormous hills were on my right. The road
was good, and above it, in the side of a steep bank, was a causeway
intended for foot passengers. It was overhung with hazel bushes. I
walked along it to its termination which was at Llangollen. I found my
wife and daughter at the principal inn. They had already taken a house.
We dined together at the inn; during the dinner we had music, for a Welsh