uage of Welshmen, and its name shows that it was founded by some
Saxon adventurer, Wrexham being a Saxon compound, signifying the home or
habitation of Rex or Rag, and identical, or nearly so, with the Wroxham
of East Anglia. It is a stirring bustling place, of much traffic, and of
several thousand inhabitants. Its most remarkable object is its church,
which stands at the south-western side. To this church, after wandering
for some time about the streets, I repaired. The tower is quadrangular,
and is at least one hundred feet high; it has on its summit four little
turrets, one at each corner, between each of which are three spirelets,
the middlemost of the three the highest. The nave of the church is to
the east; it is of two stories, both crenulated at the top. I wished to
see the interior of the church, but found the gate locked. Observing a
group of idlers close at hand with their backs against a wall, I went up
to them, and, addressing myself to one, inquired whether I could see the
church. "Oh yes, sir," said the man; "the clerk who has the key lives
close at hand; one of us shall go and fetch him--by-the-bye, I may as
well go myself." He moved slowly away. He was a large bulky man of
about the middle age, and his companions were about the same age and size
as himself. I asked them if they were Welsh. "Yes, sir," said one, "I
suppose we are, for they call us Welsh." I asked if any of them could
speak Welsh. "No, sir," said the man, "all the Welsh that any of us
know, or indeed wish to know, is 'Cwrw da.'" Here there was a general
laugh. Cwrw da signifies good ale. I at first thought that the words
might be intended as a hint for a treat, but was soon convinced of the
contrary. There was no greedy expectation in his eyes, nor, indeed, in
those of his companions, though they all looked as if they were fond of
good ale. I inquired whether much Welsh was spoken in the town, and was
told very little. When the man returned with the clerk I thanked him.
He told me I was welcome, and then went and leaned with his back against
the wall. He and his mates were probably a set of boon companions
enjoying the air after a night's bout at drinking. I was subsequently
told that all the people of Wrexham are fond of good ale. The clerk
unlocked the church door, and conducted me in. The interior was modern,
but in no respects remarkable. The clerk informed me that there was a
Welsh service every Sunday afternoon