w which I saw goats feeding; beautiful
creatures they were, white and black, with long silky hair, and long
upright horns. They were of large size, and very different in appearance
from the common race. These were the first goats which I had seen in
Wales; for Wales is not at present the land of goats, whatever it may
have been.

I passed under a crag exceedingly lofty, and of very frightful
appearance. It hung menacingly over the road. With this crag the wall
of rocks terminated; beyond it lay an extensive strath, meadow, or marsh
bounded on the cast by a lofty hill. The road lay across the marsh. I
went forward, crossed a bridge over a beautiful streamlet, and soon
arrived at the foot of the hill. The road now took a turn to the right,
that is to the south, and seemed to lead round the hill. Just at the
turn of the road stood a small neat cottage. There was a board over the
door with an inscription. I drew nigh and looked at it, expecting that
it would tell me that good ale was sold within, and read: "Tea made here,
the draught which cheers but not inebriates." I was before what is
generally termed a temperance house.

"The bill of fare does not tempt you, sir," said a woman who made her
appearance at the door, just as I was about to turn away with an
exceedingly wry face.

"It does not," said I, "and you ought to be ashamed of yourself to have
nothing better to offer to a traveller than a cup of tea. I am faint;
and I want good ale to give me heart, not wishy-washy tea to take away
the little strength I have."

"What would you have me do, sir? Glad should I be to have a cup of ale
to offer you, but the magistrates, when I applied to them for a licence,
refused me one; so I am compelled to make a cup of tea, in order to get a
crust of bread. And if you choose to step in, I will make you a cup of
tea, not wishy-washy, I assure you, but as good as ever was brewed."

"I had tea for my breakfast at Beth Gelert," said I, "and want no more
till to-morrow morning. What's the name of that strange-looking crag
across the valley?"

"We call it Craig yr hyll ddrem, sir; which means--I don't know what it
means in English."

"Does it mean the crag of the frightful look?"

"It does, sir," said the woman; "ah, I see you understand Welsh.
Sometimes it's called Allt Traeth."

"The high place of the sandy channel," said I; "did the sea ever come up
here?"

"I can't say, sir; perhaps it did; who knows?"

"I