our
teeth which must retard our progress. At dinner--7 p.m.--the captain
said we were not quite opposite Lisbon, but nearly. With a few
exceptions all have found their sea legs.

_March 22nd._--Being Orderly Officer I was up at 6.45 and inspected
our unit's breakfast at 7.15, expecting a repetition of the grousing
about their food which has gone on since we came on board, but to-day
all are satisfied for the first time. They began with porridge which
looked palatable, though sloppy for a Scotchman's taste, and was said
to be without salt, which would certainly be the case were the cook an
Englishman. Then each had a cup of coffee which looked fair enough and
smelt good to a hungry man like myself, with two thick slices of bread
with salt butter and jam. I feel as fit as a fiddle, and believe the
equinoctial gales at their worst would be none too much for me. The
feeling that I am to sink to the bottom of the ocean when the boat
pitches has entirely gone.

Stephen and I are wondering what our folks at home are doing, and if
they are always looking for letters from us by the next post. If so
they will be disappointed for many days yet. A good many of our horses
are sick, and two died yesterday and were thrown overboard. The poor
brutes have very cramped quarters.

The sea was fairly rough during daylight and the ship rolled so badly
that at lunch and dinner "fiddles" had to be put along the tables to
keep the dishes in their places. In the evening the wind fell to a
very gentle, balmy breeze, when a number of us spent some time on the
boat deck watching the phosphorescence of the jelly fish, which we saw
in many hundreds.

_March 23rd._--Got up early and on going on deck at 7.30 found we were
making straight for the sun. Most glorious morning, sun bright, sea,
except for the eternal swell, perfectly calm. We had changed our
course and were heading 8 degrees S. of E., making for the Straits of
Gibraltar. At 8 the captain, wishing to be sure of his longitude,
began bawling out to some unseen person, "Mark 23, 22; mark 23, 19,
add another 1; mark 23, 25". He explained that he took the reading
three times then struck an average.

In time land hove in sight, faint at first, but gradually the rocky
coast of Spain, north of Cape Trafalgar, became distinct, then this
cape itself came out of the mist as white as snow--so white that the
purser said he believed it actually was snow. Then higher hills beyond
appeared with